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Later, I ordered several extractors from Numrich. When I first made it, I used the extractor from a. A setscrew would be battered over time the insert secured with a nut a-la Savage 110 never. I rejected the set screw idea because I did not want the insert to move. There is no rotational force on the extractor whatsoever. I milled the bottom off so the back of the "D" is even with the 5/8 inch surface of the insert. Since this is getting kinda verbose, I will post pictures and babble on in a later post. The front sight is not ready for prime time as I am still in the development stage. I have been working on a sleeve of steel as I don't trust aluminum and set screws to hold up. The nut is a 5/8 commercial nut milled down for 16 flats at this time. 30 carbine extractor from T/C with the rimless spring. In addition, I had to replace the extractor pin with a screw so I could remove the extractor when changing inserts. I then cut the bottom of the collar flat so the tube won't rotate. I threaded the front 1/2 in of the 5/8 section to 5/8 x 18 for a nut to hold the insert rigidly in the stub. 800 for 5/16 inches (the collar), then 5/8 for 3 in, then 9/16 to the muzzle. I then milled the rearmost 5/16 of the stub off only down to the bottom of the 5/8 in bore. 625 so as to leave enough metal for the scope screws or rear sight. My goal is to make a "shorty" barrel with inserts for cartridges of 9mm para and smaller. This is almost exactly the thing I am in the process of making. I'm not fuzzy on lighting a 223 or other high intensity cartridge in this lash-up, but it should be enough for a rimfire or 30/32 cal pistol cartridge. 750? For real Super High Intensity Tinkering, how about threading the muzzle of the barrel, and installing a shroud, a-la a Dan Wesson? Too simple.Īny forward thrust on the barrel will be transmitted to the collar. Now, turn a barrel blank to just under the barrel stub ID, and turn a 1/4" collar.ĭrill the barrel stub lug for a locating screw that holds the barrel correctly aligned.Ĭut the extractor slot with a keyway cutter, holding the barrel down on V blocks.
#CHANGE EXTRACTOR ON TC CONTENDER BARRELS PLUS#
Seems a bit of a PITA, with the 5/8x18 thread and all, plus the problem of correctly orienting the barrel(s) with the extractor cut.Īfter ingestion of lots of coffee, what about boring the barrel stub straight through, then turning the barrel stub breech end back about 1/4". It has an extractor but no ejector, so you have to remove cartridges or spent cases by hand.As I was churning and burning for a 7.63x25 barrel for my G2, I came across the Eagle Arms barrel stubs for the Encore and Contender. To open the action you just pull back on the trigger guard lever to break it open. One of the beauties of the system is that whether you're going from rifle to handgun or from one handgun chambering to another, your sighting setup, whether scope or iron sights, maintains its zero. To change the grip, remove the grip cap screws then get in there with an Allen wrench to remove the bolt holding the grip in place. Off comes the barrel, along with the scope and scope mount.
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All you have to do is remove the two fore-end screws, pop off the fore-end, then drive out the large hinge pin.
#CHANGE EXTRACTOR ON TC CONTENDER BARRELS PRO#
In fact, in preparation for the TV hunts, all I had to do was give T/C a call and request a barrel, fore-end and grip for the Pro Hunter I already had-which I had set up as a rifle in. It's a single-shot break-open design that allows you to make the gun into a handgun, rifle, shotgun or even a muzzleloader. On three recent hunts for Handguns TV I've been shooting a Thompson/Center Encore Pro Hunter.